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 Finishes on Antique Wood Furniture <br/>-2

Many different finishes have been toured through the centers. Many historically authentic finishes were high maintenance, labor intensive, and not very durable, so trend has been to imperfect and enduring finishes suitable for everyday living.

A disadvantage is that wax. A disadvantage is that wax finishes can spot and stain easily from water, alcohol and cosmetics.

These penetrating oils are easy for amateurs to use because they are often wiped or brushed onto the wood, allowed to sink in, and wiped dry. This process is repeated many times, until the desired While not particularly durable, if there is damage, it is simple to add more oil and it blends in nicely .

Shellacked floors are usually very popular finish for furniture and floors a century ago. Similarly, French polish is a very laborious ESPecially popular in Europe, this finish is very sensitive to damage, costly to apply originally and to repair.

True natural varnish is rarely used anymore. While durable and attractive, it necessary very thin application, many slow-drying coats and lots of surface preparation.

Hard and fairly brittle, they can chip and crack, and sometimes get crazed or crackled - "Traditional lacquer finishes have been popular for 100 years - they have good stain resistance, wear well and can be - alligated "- over time. Strong and dangerous solvents are used in classic lacquer.

Most newly manufactured furniture, usually polyurethane or polyester. Resistant to scratching and stains, the single layer of tinted finish means that a small scratch or ding may go through the finish to the wood Many of these finishes are quick-cured with ultra-violet. These finishes are very difficult to overtake, re-coat or remove for refinishing. light, some some water rather than solvent based. An esthetic disadvantage is a rather "plastic" look and feel.

Combining both water and alcohol resistance, these finishes have a more traditional varnished look, not so "plastic-like." Much less hazardous to work with, they are a good middle ground in appearance, durability, and restorability. Much as water base paint has all but returned oil paint, these water - borne wood finishes are gaining on solvent - based finish.

While involving more labor than most manufacturers are willing to do, this step-by- Touch-up or repairs to the finish or recoating in the future are simply simple. Environmental and worker safety issues suggest that water-base finishes have an expanding future.

As far as maintenance concer concerned, wax finishes are best polished with a dry cloth or a little additional wax. For the other finishes that have a hard surface, a little lemon oil, with with beeswax, will brighten and deepen the color. shown that too frequent use of lemon oil will soften hard finishes, but in moderation, this is a great polish.

Spray commercial polishes (Pledge, Endust and the like) can cause a smeary silicone build-up that can be very hard to "Oil and stain" polishes like Older English are temporary scratch covers. A much better idea is to use the marker type of scratch covers that come in all shades of wood finishes and easily help hide minor mars. Following with a lemon oil and beeswax polish will improve any dry or worn finish.

No single finish method is right for every piece of furniture, but considerations of cost, durability and beauty are all factors in the choice of preserving and enhancing antique wood furnishings for the future.




 Finishes on Antique Wood Furniture <br/>-2


 Finishes on Antique Wood Furniture <br/>-2

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